Tuesday, July 17, 2007

I am home. I missed my flight this morning and bought another ticket. So stupid. The traffic was unfathomable. No cats for me. I couldn't find a cage/carrier in Nairobi for love nor money. Don't expect they are much in demand, and the airlines require it. Think a 9 hour bus trip would be too cruel. Pat Moran did remind me in an email that "You have a bad history with cats young lady! Need I bring up our little grey friend?" - point well taken.

So I am here for at least 3 weeks. VSO have scheduled a national volunteer conference the weekend early August but it ends the day before my 1 week language training in Eldoret (also in Western Kenya).. so we'll see how it all pans out. To work... soon. Perhaps. and I will get through my inbox in the next week or two. Sorry. b xx
Warning! Exceedingly long entry.

July 15, 2007
Well it has been a long time since I have sat down and put my thoughts on the screen. But here I am, back in Kassa-stinkin-rani and looking at an afternoon of complete nothingness before me. I would have typically gone into the city to check my email (it’s been a week) but I don’t have keys and the girls won’t be back until evening.

So let me revisit my weeks.. its been so long since I blogged that I don’t recall where I was when I last posted. My past weeks of travels.. here I go..

Mombasa
Mombasa is the city I love best. It is laid back. The air feels and smells different. At night it comes alive. In Kisumu darkness means a deserted main street, in Nairobi there is always that hint of menace about being out after dusk. Mombasa begs you to socialize, to eat or both. In summary of my activities I consumed my body weight in Indian food, though I did have some very average Chinese food one night (the two bottles of wine made up for it!)

In Mombasa I stay at the polytechnic guesthouse in Tudor on the main island. It is 500 ksh ($7) for a room and really quite fabulous. The architecture is that of a hot weather place so there are small shaped openings in the brickwork that allow the breeze in and spray the ceiling with stars of light at night. The calls to prayer at 4 am seep into your dreams and everything in the world must surely be well in a room so peaceful.

Nadia arrived in Nairobi on July 1st, and we headed by bus to Mombasa the next day. We arrived at the polytechnic after dark and not knowing our bearings, we bought bananas, passionfruit and mango from the cart outside the school gate rather than search for a meal. So we didn’t get our room all sticky we sat in the bathroom, perched on the bath and ate gobs of juicy fruit around the sink.

Dorothy is the assessment teacher at Mombasa E.A.R.C. and to say she is nice is an understatement. Sometimes she seems to grateful I think she will cry. When she met Nadia, she said “but she’s just a baby!” and I thought she was going to spill over right there on the footpath. Nadia is very young looking and Dorothy was ecstatic that she was visiting for the month. When last I heard from them, they were staying with Dorothy’s parents in Taita-Taveta while they supported that district’s training.

The Mombasa training was interesting. The participants fought over semantics, gave each other a hard time over comments and questions and were prepared to battle out the nuanced meanings of completely irrelevant crap. The expression, ‘didn’t see the forest for the trees is apt’. But anyway. I gave them a pre and post quiz and was dismayed to find that the participants did WORSE on some of the questions after the training. What to do?

My time in Mombasa was surprisingly social, which added to the general appeal of the place. Margo is the wife of a Dutch volunteer and she attended the training. Nadia was also around, though Dorothy had found her a ‘nice Christian’ family to stay with for the duration of her visit. Danielle also turned up on the coast with a special education teacher from Hawaii, and then there was Vipin.

Vipin is an Indian volunteer based on the coast, though sadly leaving before I am ready! He took this 5 day meditation retreat which Tanya has since taken and we had a massive chat about life, peace, energy and all that sort of thing. I’ve missed having discussions about what the spiritualists say, something Phil was particularly good for, if a tad regimented. Anyway Vipin has convinced me that I must really do the course, and I think I will. We actually met over coffee and then had a fabulous dinner the following night. But his talk was timed well, as I have been busy and unaware. It got me thinking about what I eat, and how I need to focus and all that good stuff that makes me a healthier human being. Vipin doesn’t eat garlic (because it scatters energy) or onion (because it sucks energy) but I figured I needed to take simpler measures (e.g. less beer and chips).

I am blessed with a really interesting cast of companions these days, which means conversation is rarely dull. Tanya and Sarah of course are my closest friends, and guaranteed to make me laugh, though I consider Tanya an all around partner in crime, while Sarah is insightful, thoughtful and generally the more responsible in this household I have gate crashed. Mike is so deadpan, and will listen to all sorts of rubbish in such a way that you realize.. ‘oh, that was all sorts of rubbish.’ Potash whom I love to hate and hate to love is so observant and astute, I wonder if perhaps he knows me better than I know myself, Vipin and Surreal playing typecast spiritualists and I could go on.. fortunately for you, I won’t.

Nyahururu
So I left Mombasa and came back to Nairobi. I then headed up to Nyahururu ‘to get away’ (which of course is ridiculous, because 1. I AM away and 2. I have now been traveling since Easter!). About 30 minutes from my cheap inn of choice, it was pointed out that it is much faster to take the road north from Nakuru rather than the circuitous route via Nyeri, but oh well, there would have been no scrumptious pineapple proffered at a gas station that way. I did arrive, and the destination was well worth the journey. Nyahururu is the site of Thomson’s Falls. They are there, they are pretty, and if you are going to find a place to sit and read, it’s a better spot than most. The inn (Thomson’s Fall Lodge) is fantastically located, and while it’s food is mediocre at best, and the service worse than that, it is all made up for by the fireplaces in the rooms. As the nights have started getting chilly in central Kenya, you can’t beat the opportunity to create some heat in a hotel room. Ha.

Following Nyahururu came Nanyuki, and at some point out of town the matatu we were riding veered off the road onto a barely visible track. This is how I found myself on an impromptu game drive. The driver had taken a route that cut directly east (almost along the equator) which propitiously also ran along the boundary of one of the private game parks. The driver (now tour guide) kept slowing to make sure I had seen the zebra, rhinocerous and other assorted animals along the way. It was very amusing and quite delightful.

Nanyuki
In Nanyuki, the training went as scheduled. The highlight was definitely lunch at the Trout Tree restaurant. How I do love that place. And Claire was right about their chocolate cake.

Isiolo
From Nanyuki we went to Isiolo. Isiolo is like the last real Kenyan town in the north east. It’s like Marsabit and Wajir don’t really exist- mere mirages out there. The border between Somalia, Ethiopia and Kenya blurs in this vast tract of land. Apparently it’s lawless and it always has been. A few metres outside of Isiolo the paved road stops and they sign you out, I’m told it’s so the government can write off all responsibility for you! Hmm. The area covered by Isiolo E.A.R.C. is over 200 km in one direction. It’s massive. They have divided their district into 6 sub-divisions and they get to each one, once every 2 years. The place is hot and dusty and feels distinctly Arab. The camels roam around like goats might elsewhere. On Thursday morning as the taxi took us out the assessment center, I had a very surreal moment. The cabbie was playing local music and it was so perfect for this novel environment that it fit just like a movie soundtrack.

The second morning, the facilitators came to me and said “it’s Friday, the participants want to leave at noon so they can go to the mosque.” I asked them which session they planned to cut then, and they choose to omit session 4, which was good.. because I was supposed to lead it and I had a thumping headache from the plethora of Tusker Malts the previous night. Danielle and I conferred and then decided seeing as we had a whole afternoon off, we should go up to Sumburu/Buffalo Springs Nature reserve for a bit of game spotting. The hotel had given me a number of someone to call and we organized a vehicle and some guides. Then at noon as the participants got ready to leave I told them I’d see them tomorrow and we would start on time. Ali looked at me in confusion and said “so they won’t be back this afternoon?’ to which I said “what? They’re coming back?”
“yes at 2.”
“but then why did we cut session 4 this morning?”
“….”
“okay, well that’s great.” And in the spirit of abandoning any sense of responsibility about why I was in Isiolo in the first place “.. but I won’t be here. I’ve organized a game drive.”
Samburu & Buffalo Springs Nature Reserve
We were picked up at our hotel at 1 o’clock and the afternoon was glorious. I could bang on and on about African landscapes, gently rolling hills in gradiated hues of shadow, big blue skies smudged with cloud, panoramas to fill your soul and what not, but I’ll just upload the photos next week.

Very early into our excursion we came upon a leopard in a tree, perhaps 2 metres from us and at eye level with where we were standing in the vehicle. The scaredy puss in me was very uncomfortable with the proximity. What to say? Amazing. Beautiful. The rest of the day was spent with elephants. There were elephants here, there and everywhere. Around each bend, behind each tree. Who’d have thought. No lions, few giraffe but lots of lovely pachyderms. After leaving the park we drove through Archer’s post which was busy with residents milling about as the sun went down. The size of the dot on the map betray’s the town’s size. In fact even the word ‘town’ is an exaggeration. As we headed back to Isiolo the stars came out one by one. It was so serene. Even my (probably unwarranted) fear of being hijacked by bandits couldn’t stop it from being a gorgeous drive home.

Nyeri
Saturday afternoon we finished up in Isiolo and made it as far south as Nyeri. We checked into the Green Hills Hotel and I crawled into bed to make a serious attempt to finish my book. I was reading “The Post-Birthday World” by Lionel Shriver and it is EXCELLENT. One of the smartest and best reads I have ever encountered. Definitely a top 5 book for me (and in company with her book “We need to talk about Kevin”). It’s funny, but this is the second book I have read recently –the other was short stories “I think of you” (?) by an Egyptian author – that has a main female character reflecting on the home she shared with a now ex- love. Something I can relate to right now as Phil’s Wood street apartment is such a powerful symbol (maybe not the right word??) of our relationship for me though the my memory of that space is now transposed with Melissa’s changes (and she’s much more gifted at home decorating than me). Perhaps the places stay in your mind longer, and present themselves for mulling over more frequently because they are less painful to reflect on than the person you shared them with. Or perhaps because a relationship occurs in the area between two people and this is usually encapsulated in the place you live, this is the concrete memento of the relationship. Anyway, the book rocks.

I didn’t get the book finished last night because at about 11:30 pm I found myself in the hotel’s basement club. I said ‘club’, but think of a high school cafeteria with a D.J. Here it is Saturday night and Danielle, Potash and I are literally the only people in the place save the staff. A single curvy female in a track suit did come in and dance alone and then a man in cowboy boots and a cowboy hat joined the floor with lots of attempts at square dancing mixed with god knows what. A couple came in later to make out along the back wall, but that was it. So we did what was called for, namely, ordered several more beers each, and started dancing. Potash did his ‘this is how a white boy dances’ imitation which was fine, until around 2 am when my dancing had pretty much deteriorated to that same flinging of limbs. It was a tremendously fun time.

So here I am. 4 pages later, I think I have recapped the highlights. Danielle leaves tomorrow and I head back to Kisumu Tuesday for 3 possibly 6 weeks in Western Kenya (can you believe it!) with my two new kitty cats. I had a tempting offer to take a dhow trip next week from Lamu to a tiny island north of Pate and south of Somalia (as far as I can tell), but in a practical moment I sadly declined. Pirates and beach boy fantasies aside I need to go home and recalibrate.

What a lucky girl I am. B xx

Monday, July 16, 2007

i wrote an epic 4 page blog entry and it isn't opening from my zip. alas. i will try another computer and see how it goes. i will be devastated if it is lost in a computer void.

i am in Nairobi albeit briefly. last week took me through Nyahururu, Nanyuki, Isiolo and Nyeri.. the missing entry will fill in the blanks. back home tomorrow. b xx

Wednesday, July 04, 2007

I am in Mombasa. What a delightful place to be. The air just smells better here. Mombasa is to Nairobi what Nice is to Paris (San Diego is to New York??) It's the laid back smaller sister.

The training is going fine. I am sick to death of district trainings and only have 2 more to go. This one is better than most though the group will argue semantics(e.g. educational record vs. educational background) without regard to the point of the exercise until it degenerates into complete mayhem. With a fight to the death policy, participants get increasingly stubborn and insistent as the discussion advances. Who'd have thought there was so much to debate when talking about speech and language in special needs populations. I completely abandoned the session on measurable goal setting becuase I didn't have the mettle at 4pm to continue. Perhaps it is best dealt with as they are creating their IEP's (Individualized Education Plans - taken straight out of the US and plopped without consideration of context or supporting systems into Kenyan law).

So. Once again. Too exhausted to write much, nearly finished Tom Robbin's "Fierce Invalids Home From Hot Climates." It is such a joyeus romp of a book I will be sad to read the final paragraph. I could write the man a love letter I have enjoyed it so much. On deck is Lionel Shriver's newest and "The Icarus(sp?) Girl" by Helen O-someone.

soon. b

Sunday, July 01, 2007

Hello.. A brief update, but very brief I am afraid.. in Nairobi.. headed to Mombasa tomorrow. 2 more weeks on the road and 3 more district trainings to go. Then me and the 2 kitties are heading west for about 3 whole very dull weeks in my aqua house, Kisumu. I am hoping to be bored senseless so i can get around to the multitude of things I haven't done but should have.. I may take a brief personal break north to Lake Baringo for Sarah's birthday but that is not yet confirmed.

This weekend I came to Nairobi for a speech therapist meeting (all 6 Kenyan based SLP's in the same room- you can bet it was a jolly old time) and the American embassy 4th of July party, but then i didn't go because rumour had it my Kenyan friend would not be admitted. It may have been myth but I really couldn't be bothered to traipse all the way out there to test it. I spent the weekend at Upper Hill Campsite with many many many Peace Corp volunteers who were also there for the above mentioned party and a 4th of July Toga Party Prom. Yes. If you think it seems unusual to have a prom when you are graduated from college, or strange to have a 4th July toga party, then you are not alone in your thoughts. My neighbor Brian was there though and he is a rather amusing chap.

So. Last week I was in Siaya, the week before has been completely obliterated from my mind.. it shall all resurface in let's say ... August. But I am well. A little moody at times, but apparently i can blame it on my malaria medication. hahahaha. actually that may well explain why I am so freakin' tired all the time.

There is it. The play by play. In a severe break of my non-meat eating principles I have of late consumed bacon, 1 sausage and 1/4 of a fried chicken. Flexitarian.

Must fly back to Kassarani to catch up with my girlie pals. love, love. b xx