Yellow House

September 1, 2007
The weeks are behind me like the miles of dusty Kenyan road and it’s hard to recall what I have been doing with my time. But finally I feel like I have a moment (and a new power cord enabling computer use at home) so I will attempt to recapture the travels I have been on.

Somewhere.
Abbie appeared in Nairobi the night she said she would. I hadn’t expected it, thinking that perhaps the new friends and Nakuru would hold her a little longer. But there she was and we were no closer to deciding what to do with our time. As my dad says “you only has so much time, and you only have so much money.” These were our parameters and truthfully not very helpful ones given the options.

We got up Tuesday morning and headed to the airport to try and fly to the coast, but Fly 540 claimed they didn’t know where their planes were and Kenyan Airlines were full, so that left us at square 1. Our backup plan had been Arusha, but we decided that no, we’d go back to itinerary #362 and thus ended in Naivasha. I am so very glad we did.

There.
Josephat lives in Naivasha. Though he is from Samburu originally he has lived there for the last 10 years or so with his grandmother. Tragedy strikes his family with an alarming frequency and his story telling is always melodramatic. I think he might be 23, self educated for the most part and so smart about so many things that if you have to spend three days hiking around the Rift Valley of course you would want to do it with Josephat (for the conversation alone). I know him because he is more or less an old flame of Tanya’s. “She opened up a new world to me” he says. Well I am sure she did.

Across.
So Tuesday night found me, glass of cold white wine in hand, looking over Lake Naivasha at the moon and stars, listening to the hippos splashing at the water’s edge and recalling why it is I had moved here. P. may constantly groan about all the white girl ‘big sky’ references, but I am compelled to write about it. Naivasha is known for its endless sky, isn’t that why you go there?

The lake is serenity, especially on a clear night.

In.
Wednesday then, we left early and biked into Hell’s Gate National Park. It is so beautiful there. We biked and looked at animals, biked and looked at animals. We did a little off roading through the bush. What fun!

When we got to the gorge we hiked in. Really by this point all I could think of was lunch which was my sole responsibility for the excursion. And it was delicious! Peanut butter and salt & vinegar chip sandwiches. I thought I had never eaten anything so good in my life.

That afternoon Abbie and I became the dorkiest people I know. We spent it collecting rocks, substantially extending the amount of time it would typically take getting down the gorge. It was such good old fashioned fun. The Rift Valley was formed (and this is a very loose and not necessarily correct interpretation of the scientific processes that occurred in the area) when two techtonic plates shifted. When whatever happended happened, it left a valley that drops perhaps 9000 metres at some point west of Nairobi. On the valley floor there are five lakes (crater, Nakuru, Bogoria, Baringo, Elmenteita & Naivasha) which apparently used to be one before this geographical activity. There is also Mount Longonot and a crater or two to say the least. Anyway, I tell you all this because with all the past volcanic activity the rocks are very very interesting and varied!

Abbie and I spent literally hours collecting samples of different rocks, and when I migrated from just the pretty sparkly black ones I had to limit myself to only one pocketful which meant a constant reassessment of my set.

Anyway hours later we emerged and getting back on the bike felt like a form of torture. I really had to ride the last 5 km on one butt cheek, it was terrible. By the time we got back to our accommodation my legs definitely had the wobbles and my skin was barbequed (apparently doxy makes you photosensitive, I would have thought this an important bit of info from my dr. but oh well!).

There was some drama with a buffalo, but as Josephat took care of it, I’ll not venture further down that path.

Up.
So Thursday we hiked Mount Longonot. It was amazing. We were joined by an Australian Felicity and I think I will let the photos speak for the beauty of the view. We were the sky. The avocado and cheese sandwiches at the top were definitely the best thing I had eaten since lunch the day before. I want a sash that says “Picnic Queen.”

Going down there was some drama with armed bandits/poachers, but as Josephat took care of it, we took a different path.

At.
Friday, as you might imagine, our enthusiasm for all this walking about malarkey had ebbed somewhat. We hiked to Crater Lake. We didn’t do it with half the bounce we might have earlier in the week. Actually the only thing pushing me on is that I thought we might be able to get a swank lunch at the lodge. Crater Lake, whilst green and small, is very pretty. Definitely worth a visit, though perhaps when your body feels a little less like mine did.

I have to say all the fresh air, wonderful conversation and exercise was fabulous. I really felt like I had gotten away. It was a holiday.

Beside.
Friday night I headed back to Nairobi for P’s book opening. A Canadian journalist pointed out that it was strangely comforting that book openings are the same everywhere in the world. Anyway, it was very nice

Over.
So since then.. well to prevent this becoming an epic entry I’ll just say we were in the Masai Mara. It was nice. The food was terrible (a letter to Savuka Travel is in the works). I can tolerate pit latrines and mosquitos but bad food is just ridiculous. The best bit about the trip was actually the company. There were a couple who live and work in Sudan and interestingly, just the day before I had applied for a position in Southern Sudan (dad I will not fight with you about this until it is actually a possibility). Anyway, they were very funny and very nice.

This morning I am sitting on the sofa drinking tea, and preparing for the conference in Zanzibar next week. I will eat Dave’s mndazi if he doesn’t get up soon, but it is so nice to be at home sleeping in my own bed.

I’m likely to be offline for the next couple of weeks. I am headed to that heavenly island Monday and then Dave leaves/Denise arrives and I go to Kajiado to make classroom visits. Amboseli is also in the plans before coming back to Kisumu.

So.. Soon. B xx